BAROQUE & ROLL :: Exploring Ragusa and the Neighbouring Towns

The south-east of Sicily is the perfect example of how, in the aftermath of a cataclysm, man, nature, chance and design can sometimes combine to create a thing of beauty. In 1693, a devastating earthquake shook the region and destroyed most of the towns and villages that once stood there. This natural disaster dealt a terrible blow to the territory and its people, but it also presented a golden opportunity to the resilient residents to rebuild in a grander style. New towns and villages rose from the rubble of the past as eminent examples of High Baroque that are considered architectural masterpieces and which have, to a large extent, withstood the test of time.

In the week preceding Easter, Suzanne and I took advantage of the newly introduced Air Malta connection to Comiso to explore this part of Sicily. Although we had visited our northerly neighbour several times before, we had never actually been to this province, except to disembark at Pozzallo when opting for the maritime connection by catamaran instead of a flight to Catania. So, for us, it was to be a journey of discovery into familiar yet virgin territory.

Getting There

Aided by a tailwind pushing us steadily from the rear (as tailwinds invariably do), the flight from Malta International Airport to Comiso was even shorter than usual. And by the time we unfastened our seatbelt, the announcement sounded on the cabin’s PA system instructing us to fasten them again for landing. If only all flights were this short! Carrying only hand luggage, it took us mere minutes to exit the plane, cross the tarmac, pass through the miniscule arrivals hall and out of the terminal, and hop in a taxi en route to Ragusa Ibla. If only all airports were this small!! Half an hour later, we were ringing the bell at Le Fioriere – a small B&B located just a few metres away from the sumptuous San Giorgio’s Duomo.

Suzanne had found this property on Booking.com and it turned out to be a real find (pardon the pun). This is what Mrs P had to say about the place on our return (and I cannot but concur 100%): “Our room was an old mill room which was tastefully converted. Furniture was fine, bed very comfy and we had a nice big chunky rug. There was a shared kitchen and dining area. You could make your own tea or coffee on the stove or coffee machine at any time of the day. Supplies were provided. A substantial breakfast was laid out every morning, with fresh pastries, cereals, breads, as well as jams, honey and home-made yoghurt. Fresh fruit and nuts were available in a bowl, to take whenever you want. The fresh croissants and local butter were delicious! Wi-Fi was very good.”

Ragusa Ibla and Ragusa Superiore

Ragusa is the name given to both the town and the surrounding province, which according to Wikipedia has around 73,000 inhabitants. The town itself is split in two parts… Ragusa Ibla is the older town located in the lower part of the Valle dei Ponti, with the more modern Ragusa Superiore occupying the upper part of the neighbouring hillside.

We spent a day and half exploring Ragusa Ibla during which we managed to see most of the churches and monuments worth visiting, of which there are several. The Sicilian Baroque is characterised by elaborate stucco and stone work, adorning facades, columns, staircases, and balconies. Although Malta has a fair share of Baroque palaces and majestic churches, and its very own variant of baroque (Maltese Baroque) I don’t think it gets anywhere near the Sicilian in terms of sheer over-the-top ‘Baroqueness’.

The Cathedrals of San Giorgio and San Giovanni Battista are major landmarks and not to be missed. Other churches include the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Scale, Chiesa di San Giuseppe and Chiesa delle Santissime Anime del Purgatorio. Then there are a number of historic buildings which are open to the public, a handful of museums and the characteristic narrow winding streets to explore. The Giardini Iblei gardens offer panoramic views over the lush valley.

A word of caution: Ragusa (and most other historic towns in Sicily) are built on a hillside – so comfortable walking shoes are a must.

In the Neighbourhood

Within a 25 km radius from Ragusa Ibla, one can find a number of interesting localities to visit. One will be spoiled for choice between historic cities and well-organised beaches, some flying the prestigious Blue Flag. Marina di Ragusa is one of them. Characterized by golden sand and shallow waters, and offering a choice of restaurants, bars and amenities. Marina di Ragusa is also the ideal place for an evening stroll along the promenade or to have a drink, a meal or to go dancing at one of several nightclubs. All of this happens in the summer season, since in winter many of the beachside establishments remain closed for refurbishment and maintenance.

Also situated within a short drive from Ragusa, the towns of Scicli and Modica are another two highlights of the Noto Valley (Val di Noto). Like Ragusa, these towns are also UNESCO World Heritage sites and offer fascinating examples of Sicilian Baroque in a ruggedly rustic setting.

For the fans of Andrea Camillleri’s lovable Commissario Montalbano as featured in the popular Italian TV series, a visit to Punta Secca (where the screen detective has his balconied villa overlooking the beach), will provide the proverbial cherry on the cake… …or in this case, the Cassata Siciliana.